Method of making shoes



s E O Rm is im Mm WF 0 6w H T E M May 6, W30.

Filed April 29, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTQR May fi, H936 G. W. MILLER METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed April 29, 1929 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 2J5 ATTNE Patented May 6, 193a UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GEORGE w. MILLnn, or noonnsrnn, new YORK I mnrnon or MAKING snons Application filed April 29,

avoiding labor and expense as well as the in- I jury of materials caused by driving tacks therethrough. A still further object is to rovide' a method such as described above y which the shoe upper and associated parts may be quickly and precisely drawn into the desired relation to the last and insole and secured in position by means of a suitable cement, and an outer sole thereafter cemented in place to complete the shoe.- To these and other ends the invention resides in certain improvements and combinations of parts, all as will be hereinafter more v fully described, the novel features being pointed out in the claims at the end of the specification.

In the drawings: 'Fig. 1 is a side elevation showing the upper prepared for lasting;

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing'the upper drawn loosely over the last and its attached insole; I Fig. 3 is a view of the shoe bottom showing the upper secured in lasted relation over the msole; Fig. 4 is a similar view showing the last ing hgatures removed and the bottom prepared for attachment of the outsole; Fig. 5 shows the application of cement to the outer sole preparatory to its attachment; Fig. 6is a side elevation of a shoe completed by the present method, and

Figs..7 and 8 are enlarged, sectional views on lines 7- a and 88, respectively, in Fi 6, showing the construction at the heel forward portions, respectively, of the finished shoe.

Similar reference numerals throughout the several views indicate the same parts.

The present invention relates more especially to the lasting of a shoe upper on an 1929. Serial No. 358,860.

insole, and the preparation for and the attachment of the outer sole. Accordingly, the upper is assembled in the usual or in any suitable manner, with a lining, counter and similar stiflening or other fittings, as may be found appropriate to the particular shoe to be produced. By way of illustration there is shown in the present instance, Figs. 1 and 2, an upper 10 having a lining 11 and counter 12 of a known variety.

Before the upper is lasted, it is provided at its edges with a ligature, or drawing means for effectively pulling and securing the upper on the last in the desired lasted relation to the insole. Such ligature is shown in the present instance in the form of one or more flexible wire loops which are secured to the edges of the upper by stitching. This drawing wire may be applied as a single loop extending entirely around the upper and to be later cut in two at both sides of the waist of the shoe to afford separate loops, one for the forwardpart of the shoe, and one for the heel portion. It is preferred, howeveryto stitch t0 the edges of the upper two separate wire loops, one extending around the for- Ward portion of the shoe, as at 13, and the wire is secured by any suitable stitches, preferably, however, of the zigzag type, as

. shown at 15. This prepares the upper for lasting as shown in Fig. 1. I

In attaching the upper and its associated parts to the insole, and in attaching the outer sole, the present invention comprises the use for securing such parts together, of a quick' drying, strong, waterproof cement or glue, suitable for permanently securing the parts together without any other fastening means such as stitches, pegs, or nails. A suitable cement for this purpose, believed to be of a cellulose variety or base, is now obtainable on the market, such cements having the desired pro erties described above to a high degree. ement of this character is applied to the'inner side of the lining, and between the lining, counter and upper, or to the outer surface of the insole, or to all of such parts as may be found desirable. It may be applied either at the time of lasting or else someother around the heel portion, as at 14. The

time prior thereto so as to be dry at the time of lasting, the latter method of use being preferable because affording a cleaner lastin operation, in which case the cement is so tened by a suitable solvent at the time of lasting.

The upper, equipped with wire loops as described, is then pulled over the last 16 having the insole 17 temporarily secured to its bottom, as by means of tacks 18, as shownin Fig. 2. With the parts supplied with cement, as previously explained, the ends of each wire loop are then brought together and united by an initial twist as shown at 19. Each loop is then tensioned by pulling andtw sting its united ends 19. Such man pulation causes the loops to forcefully draw the upper into accurate fitting relation with the last, the wire sliding through the stitches 15 by which it is loosely attached to the edges of the upper, with the result that the latter are brought precisely to the desired lasted relation on the insole as shown in Fig. 3, the ends of each loop being tightly twisted to, secure may be accomplished manually, but it is preferred for this purpose to employ a suitable device such, for example, as described in my copendin application Serial Number 401,526, filed ctober 22, 1929, for shoe lasting device.

Cement of the vaf'iety referred to' above dries with great rapidity so that theparts are soon ready for the next step, which is the presentation of the stitches 15 to an emery wheel or other suitable rotary cutter by which the stitches are quickly cut and re leased. This releases the wire loops wh1ch are removed. The shoe bottom is then presented to a saw, emery wheel, or other suitable rotary tool, by means of which the projecting folds of the edges of the upper are cut down and the whole bottom leveled and smoothed, preparatoryto the application of the outer sole. In this treatment the surfaces of the edges of the upper and ad acent insole portions are abraded to produce efiective glue receiving surfaces, the shoe bottom being thus brought to the condition shown in Fig. 4.

The outer sole 20 is affixed by cementing it to the inturned edges of the upper and the adjacent last portions,. although of course, if desirable, the entire surfaces of the insole and outsole may be cemented together. Such attachment is preferably accomplished by the useof cement of the character described above and by applying the same to the shoe bottom or to the outer sole or to both as may be found desirable. In this case also, as described above in connection with the cementpegs, and nails.

ing of the upper to the insole. the cement may be applied at the time that the outsole is p0- sitioned on the shoe, or may be previously applied to such part or parts and allowed to dry and subsequently softened by a solvent at the time of the attachment ofthe parts. It has been found to be sufiicient and economical of cement to apply the latter over a comparatively narrow area extending around the outline of the shoe as indicated at 21 in Fig. 5, such area corresponding substantially with the inturned edges of the upper. The outer sole is cemented in this manner to the shoe bottom andpressed and held in place until the cement is dry, by means of the usual or any suitable form of clamp or jack, understood in the art.

Tt will thus be seen that the invention atfords a simple and convenient method for rapidly and effectively lasting and completing a cemented shoe, substantially eliminatas well ing the use in such operations of stitches, This represents a highly important saving of time, labor and expense, eliminates injury of the materials during the making and Wearing of the shoe, as well as the danger of injury to the foot by protruding pegs and nails, and affords a smooth and flexible shoe without inseams or inseam channels. The elimination of stitches, pegs and nails furthermore permits of the use of light, soft and inexpensive materials. These are considerations of the first importance, especially in the making of shoes for children and infants. The steps of the method are rapidly accomplished throughout at a minimum of expense, facilitate precise lasting and shaping of the shoe and produce an efiicient and durablertype of construction.

I claim as my invention:

1. The method of making shoes comprising securing ligature means to the edges of a shoe upper by means of stitches, drawing said upper over a last and insole, tensioning said ligature means to draw said upper into lastcd position with an adhesive applied between said upper and insole to secure said parts together, releasing said stitches and removing said ligature means, and attaching an outsole.

2. The method .of making shoes comprising securing a wire loop to the edges ofa shoe upper by means of stitches, drawing said upper over a last and insole, tensioning said loop to position said upper in lasted relation to said insole with an adhesive applied between said insole and upper to secure the latter together, releasing said stitches and removing said loop, and attaching an outsole.

3. The method of making shoes compris ing stitching wire loops to the edges of the forward and heel portions, respectively, of

an upper, drawing said upper over a last and said upper portions in lasted relation to said insole with an adhesive applied between said insole and upper to secure the latter together,

releasing said stitches and removing said loops and thereafter attaching an outsole.

4:. The method of making shoes comprising stitching wire loops to the edges of the forward and heel portions, respectively, of an upper, drawing said upper over a last and insole, tensioning each of said loops and twisting the ends of each loop together to position and hold said upper in lasted relation to said insole with a cellulose cement interposed therebetween to secure the same together, releasing said stitches and removing said loops, leveling the bottom of the shoe and attaching an outsole thereto by means of said cellulose cement.

5. The method of making shoes comprising securing wire loops to the edges of the forward and heel portions, respectively, of a shoe upper by means of zig-zag stitches, drawing said upper over a last having an insole attached thereto, pullin and twisting together the ends of each of said loops to position and hold said upper portions in lasted relation to said insole with a cellulose cement interposed therebetween to secure the same together, allowing said cement to dry, em-

ploying a rotary cutter to out and release said stitches, removing said loops, leveling and abrading the bottom of the shoe to re pare a smooth and effective gluing sur ace, and attaching an outsole by means of said cellulose cement.

GEORGE W. MILLER. 

